Somewhere between the surreal and the sophisticated:

Shrunken heads, waxen gangsters, a carousel, street magicians, ice cream, and lots of reptiles. Just the right ingredients for a perfect vacation — and all available in St. Augustine, Florida. St. Augustine's attractions run the gamut from the weird and whimsical to the refined and romantic. There are some places, however, which lie comfortably between the extremes — activities, accommodations and restaurants where children are welcome, and where parents can still relax, have fun, hold hands, and, perhaps even feel pampered. Here are a few:

SIGHTSEEING CRUISE ON THE VICTORY III: The cruise, which departs from the Municipal Marina (just next to the Bridge of Lions), lasts an hour and fifteen minutes. Snacks, soft drinks, wine and beer are sold on board, and chances are good that you'll see some dolphins up close. For a little romance, take one of the evening cruises, and try to count all the colors the sky takes on as the sun sets over Matanzas Bay.

THE ALLIGATOR FARM (A1A South, 2 miles south of the Bridge of Lions): More than its name suggests. Yes, you'll see more alligators than that Crocodile Hunter guy will probably see in his lifetime, and if you've got a strong stomach you can watch them being fed. But there's also a wonderful zoo, and a truly beautiful wild bird rookery where, if you're there in season, you can see hundreds of gorgeous white egrets tending to their young. It all looks prettiest in the late afternoon.

The Kenwood Inn (38 Marine Street/904-824-2116/www.oldcity.com/kenwood): One of the few bed-and-breakfasts that welcome children (8 years and older), it still has enough charm and elegance to lend a family trip some second-honeymoon romance for the adults. The original house, built in 1865 and used as a boarding house/inn since 1886, now encompasses 10,000 square feet, but the Inn still retains its cozy, old-fashioned ambience. It's also unique in that there is a swimming pool in the shady courtyard. The sunroom is well-stocked with games, and wine, sherry, and cookies are served in the evening. Innkeepers Mark and Kerriane Constant are gracious, yet unobtrusive hosts, and the breakfast of bagels, fresh-baked muffins and cakes, fruit, yogurt and cereal is a beautiful thing to see first thing in the morning. ($95-$225/night).

House of Sea and Sun (2 B Street, off of A1A Beach Blvd./904-461-1716/www.oldcity.com/seaandsun) Another bed-and-breakfast with some unique distinctions: children and dogs are welcome in the spacious condo units behind the main house, and the inn is right on the beach, about 5 miles south of downtown St. Augustine. The main house was built in 1914, and innkeeper Patty Steder has given each room a character of its own. The condos each have a full kitchen and bath, a separate bedroom (the bed I slept in smelled of almonds and felt as if I'd fallen into a cloud for the night), a rollaway bed, and a fold-out couch. Breakfast is at 9 in the main house, where Patty serves fruit, pancakes, bacon and her famous scrambled eggs in a sunny room overlooking the beach. ($125-$225/night).